Protective styles can help stretch time between washes, protect the ends of the hair shaft, and allow beautiful and creative expression through braids, twists, locs, and sew-in extensions. However, if these styles start to feel too tight, pull along the edges, or leave soreness behind, your scalp may be in need of attention. Wearing styles with high tension can lead to hair thinning that is fortunately both preventable and reversible—with the appropriate care. The right strategies can keep hair thriving without sacrificing beauty or style.
How to Keep Your Hair Healthy in Protective Hairstyles
Health & Wellness
3 Min Read
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Listen to your scalp.
A little snugness is normal when a style is fresh, but pain, bumps, or tenderness mean your hair follicles are under stress. Prolonged pulling can cause irritation that weakens the follicle, potentially leading to hair thinning.1,2
If your scalp feels tight or sore:
Use a lightweight oil or leave-in mist with calming botanicals (like peppermint, rosemary, or chamomile) to soothe irritation.
Gently massage along your edges or tender areas—not to loosen the style, but to help stimulate circulation and calm irritation.3
If pain persists beyond a few days, the style may need to be adjusted or removed.
Give your scalp time to recover.
The beauty of protective styles lies in their versatility. However, wearing high-tension styles back-to-back without breaks can exhaust your scalp with repeated tension. Alternate your parting patterns and style types so the same sections of hair aren’t constantly pulled or braided. If possible, allow recovery time between changing styles to keep follicles strong and minimize long-term damage.4,5
Healthy rotation ideas:
Take 1–2 weeks between installs to let your scalp recover.
Try knotless braids, twists, crochet locs, or larger sections to reduce weight and friction.
Choose wigs or lightweight clip-ins with satin caps for low-tension intervals.
When removing a style, gently detangle and treat your edges with care to encourage growth and minimize shedding.
Partner with your stylist.
Open communication with your stylist is one of your best tools for reducing breakage. If you notice pain, thinning edges, or excessive shedding, speak up before it worsens. Stylists can adjust techniques such as looser braiding along the hairline or switching to lighter extensions to protect your scalp.
Curly and coily hair types are more vulnerable to breakage and traction-related hair changes, particularly when coupled with chemical treatments like hair dyes and relaxers.6 Talk with your stylist about lower ammonia dyes or timing relaxing treatments further apart to decrease strain on the hair strands and reduce vulnerability.
When to see a dermatologist.
If you’ve noticed persistent tenderness, itching, bumps, or early signs of hair thinning, it may be time to see a dermatologist, who can help identify scalp concerns before they lead to more thinning.1,2
A dermatologist can:
Examine your scalp for redness or follicular damage.
Prescribe treatments and/or therapies to support growth if necessary.
Help rule out other causes of shedding like iron deficiency, thyroid changes, or hormonal imbalances.
Offer guidance on when and how to safely return to protective styling.
Striking a balance.
Protective hairstyles have rich cultural traditions, beauty, and style. Proper care ensures the styles can remain beneficial without compromising scalp health. Listening to your body, giving your scalp time to rest, and staying open and flexible with your stylist allows you to enjoy protective styles that truly protect.
1. Billero V, Miteva M. Traction alopecia: the root of the problem. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2018;11:149-159. Published 2018 Apr 6. doi:10.2147/CCID.S137296
2. Raffi, J., Suresh, R., & Agbai, O. (2019). Clinical recognition and management of alopecia in women of color. International Journal of Women’s Dermatology, 5(5), 314–319. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijwd.2019.08.005
3. Koyama, T., Kobayashi, K., Hama, T., Murakami, K., & Ogawa, R. (2016). Standardized scalp massage results in increased hair thickness by inducing stretching forces to dermal papilla cells in the subcutaneous tissue. Eplasty, 16, e8. PMID: 26904154
4. Geisler, A. N., et al. (2024). Updates on disorders in curly hair. International Journal of Dermatology, 63(9), 1145–1154. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijd.17184
5. Syed, H. A., & Kaliyadan, F. (2025). Traction alopecia. In StatPearls. StatPearls Publishing. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29262008
6. Giacaman, A., & Ferrando, J. (2022). Keys to the diagnosis of hair shaft disorders: Part II. Actas Dermo-Sifiliográficas, 113(2), 150–156. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ad.2021.06.003
